Galway Like A Local

On the west coast, Galway has an almost palpable creative buzz, fuelled by its vibrant arts scene and festival-hopping calendar. At the same time, it’s deeply rooted in tradition, as the gateway to the Irish-speaking Connemara region and sea-sculpted Wild Atlantic Way. Some of the country’s finest musicians gather in its pubs, while the hyper-local food scene punches well above its weight. In town for a weekend? Here's where to head.

FRIDAY 

With its colourful frontages, independent shops and flutter of bunting, Shop Street is the perfect introduction to Galway’s thrumming street life. It’s famed for its buskers, and footage still exists of a young Ed Sheeran strumming on the corner. Take a detour along nearby Quay Street to the tiny Coffeewerk + Press, which serves flawless cortados behind a buttercup yellow-framed façade. Head up to the first floor for extra seating and shelves of art prints and design finds, including Irish willow baskets.  

This is the heart of the old Latin Quarter leading down to the River Corrib, and centuries of history are etched into the buildings. Accessed through the 16th-century Spanish Arch, Galway City Museum is home to one of the oldest known Claddagh rings; with two hands clutching a crowned heart, the rings are a symbol of the city. The museum’s quayside neighbour Ard Bia is an excellent spot for dinner, with clever riffs on local seafood (Killary mussels might come with salsa verde, Donegal squid with kimchi aioli). Afterwards, take in some traditional music at the pint-sized Tig Cóilí, known for its packed sessions. 

SATURDAY 

This small-scale city is made for freewheeling, so hop on borrowed bikes from The Dean Galway. Across the Corrib in the Westend, Plámás is an arty coffee spot. Order in Irish for a discount  (hint: ‘flat white le do thoil’) before heading to St Nicholas farmers’ market, where it’s worth getting in line for BoyChik’s sugar-dipped doughnuts, the Oyster Man’s freshly shucked seafood, or Galway Bay Bakery’s exemplary salt-beef bagels. Behind the market’s hubbub is St Nicholas’ Church, whose statues were desecrated by Cromwell’s troops – though the mermaids on its weathered façade managed to escape unscathed.

Clustered around Middle and Abbeygate streets, Galway’s independent shops run from the old-school and analogue to the achingly hip. Kindf_olk stocks hip homeware and tightly curated menswear, while the floor-to-ceiling shelves at Charlie Byrne’s are a bookworm’s dream (if you’ve got younger kids, don’t miss the Saturday-morning storytime). A few doors away, Hazel Mountain Chocolate sells small-batch chocolate made from mill-ground beans, and decadent peppermint hot chocolates. Drop by artisan perfume-maker Cloon Keen’s nearby atelier, where fragrances are laced with unexpected notes – gorse, perhaps, or iris root. 

Lunch on an Irish cheeseboard at Sheridan’s, overlooking the market square, or try the seafood chowder with treacle bread at Rúibín, a harbour’s-edge address with a big reputation. In this arts-mad town, creative inspiration is never far away, and 126 Artist-Run Gallery, Outset and Galway Arts Centre are all worth a mooch. 

Another option is to cycle out to the seaside promenade at Salthill. Here, Blackrock Cottage serves terrific açaí bowls and has views of hardy swimmers jumping off Blackrock diving board. For a plunge in the Atlantic without the spectators, consider cycling onwards to the shallow, sandy beach at Silver Strand, around 20 minutes by bike.  

After a spin back to town, recover at Daróg Wine Bar, a laidback showcase for sustainable, small-scale vineyards. From here, it’s a five-minute walk to Kai, a local slow-food pioneer with a Michelin green star. Its menus are reliably inventive, with dishes such as black sole with fennel and lovage aïoli, and wild rose sorbet for dessert. A few doors down, live music at the Crane Bar is a must, though it’s usually standing-room only. If it’s too tightly packed, wander back via the Latin Quarter, where the comfortably cluttered Tigh Neachtain pulls a creamy pint, and Prátaí does a roaring trade in rosemary-salted chips (note: it shuts up shop at 10pm). 

SUNDAY 

The much-loved Magpie Bakery only opens at 10am, so there’s no need to be up too early to claim a cinnamon-dusted morning bun. Elevenses sorted, take the bus to Rusheen Bay for some kayaking or paddleboarding. 

Alternatively, consider taking the 9:30AM ferry from Galway City Docks to Inis Mór, where dry-stone walls create patterns on the landscape like the island’s cable knit-stitched Aran jumpers. Rent bikes from the pier to explore the prehistoric fort of Dún Aonghasa, on the edge of a sheer sea-cliff, and the wave-carved tidal pool known as Poll na bPéist (the Serpent’s Lair). The return boat passes the towering, seabird-circled Cliffs of Moher, before depositing you back in Galway at 6pm.

If you have a car, another option would be to strike out to Connemara, venturing as far as the coastal town of Clifden or the National Park, with its red deer and heather-flecked peaks. Loop back via the Wild Atlantic Way to the fishing village of Roundstone, where Coffee Cottage offers Galway-roasted brews and front-row harbour views. It’s a two-minute drive to the horseshoe scoop of Dog’s Bay, with its Caribbean-like white sands. Your return drive could take in lunch at thatched café POTA in the heart of the Irish-speaking Gaeltacht, and a session in the wood-fired Driftwood Sauna, whose windows frame sublime Atlantic views.